Saturday, December 24, 2011

A WEEK IN VIETNAM

CLICK ON THE TITLE OF THIS BLOG POSTING AND IT'LL TAKE YOU TO MY WEB ALBUM WITH ALL THE PHOTOS FROM VIETNAM

I'm waiting for my flight out of Hanoi to Siem Reap and I can honestly say I'm looking forward to going back home (Siem Reap seriously does feel like home; it's where my heart is). It's not that I didn't have a good time in Vietnam but it's just that I now find myself comparing every city to the laid back and friendly Siem Reap. I did have a great time in Vietnam though. The adventure began in Ho Chi Minh City where I spent the first day walking around and getting to and from far distances via moto taxi which is basically just a motorcycle although the bikes here a bit wider and the streets more narrow, go figure. My sight seeing began at the Reunification Palace which is the former government of the South Vietnamese government until of course the Viet Cong crashed the iron gates and over took the Palace on April 30th, 1975 declaring victory.

The picture I took of the entrance of the Reunification palace on Dec. 17th, 2011



A picture taken of the Reunification Palace on April 30, 1975



The coolest part by far was the basement where there are a network of tunnels and a war room and even a room where the President used to sleep during times of war or unrest. You could almost get a sense of the top secret work that was done down in those small rooms. Walking through a building and taking a picture of the entrance where exactly 36 years before tanks came crashing into the front entrance, was quite surreal especially seeing that I had shot an almost exact replica of the front entrance that was posted on the wall minus the tanks and soldiers. After taking my time examining every room in the building, I made the short walk to War Remnants Museum which is an ode to the sacrifices and lives lost during the Vietnam war as well as all the countries against the war except, well...the U.S. By the fourth floor I couldn't stomach another picture of yet another disfigured body due the after affects of the war. But walking out of there was really an extremely educational and humbling experience: From then on, whenever I really 'looked' at a local, I could see the years of suppression and war in the years behind their eyes. It's a tragedy that really shouldn't have happened. And so they move on as did I.



One of the many large rooms in the Palace



The next day I traveled up to Cu chi to explore the Cu Chi tunnels where the Viet Cong had built hidden and complex underground tunnels to escape and launch an offensive war against the Americans and the South Vietnamese Army. I got to physically experience the tunnels by actually going through a make-shift one which I was assured by our guide, was big enough for 'large' foreigners to go through. Well lets just say that even though the tunnel was only about 500 metres long and wide enough for two average sized bodies to squat next to one another, I still felt claustrophobic and a little anxious. It was hard to imagine what the soldiers had to go through especially with bombs going off all around them. I also got to shoot a machine gun. This trip really was my time to experience many things for the first time.

The makeshift tunnel we went through



In the tunnel before I began going through



Firing a M60



View of Ho Chi Minh city from the rooftop at Sheraton



After exhausting myself with loads of walking, I feasted on Pho. I enjoyed my first Pho Ga on a busy street in the backpackers quarters. It was great. The next day I booked a day trip to the Mekong Delta where I got to see the My Tho and Ben Tre and some islands around the area. I got to see a honey plant and taste some honey tea. They had some huge snakes as well, not sure what kind, and I surprised myself when I showed enough guts to put the snake around my neck. Mind you I was still shaking 10 minutes after the fact.

Freaking out



We canoed along the river for a while which was nice except for the loads of tourists which caused a traffic jam along the Mekong! So local!



We also stopped by a coconut candy factory. Then it was lunch on the Island where we were served a full fish (eyes and all) along with rice and veggies. Once again I surprised myself when I dug into the fish and picked off the meat like everyone else. We made our own rice paper spring rolls with the fish and it was delicious.

Nicely decorated fish



Eating the fish rice spring roll I made!



Then we enjoyed some tea and fruit listening to some traditional Vietnamese songs being sung by local singers. Our very own guide joined in for a love song as well, it was cute. I ended up meeting some nice folks on the tour which was great and one who I've exchanged emails with. I was pooped when I got back to my hotel but still had to make a few calls to arrange for a hotel in Hanoi before I hit the sack. It was a success or so I thought. I showed up in Hanoi early in the afternoon. When I showed up at the the hotel where I had supposedly reserved a room I was told there were no rooms left but that the 'sister hotel' which was charging double the price had a room available. I was not impressed. I mean it's not like even paying double was expensive; the room would cost me $14, it was just the way the situation was handled that had annoyed. So I obliged and settled into my new room however it wasn't long that I realized even though I was paying double the price I was getting a dirty room. I decided to hit the streets in search of a new place and to book my tour to Halong Bay. I think I walked for about 2 minutes when I came upon a street lined with similar shops dedicated to booking tours and seconded as guesthouses. It didn't take long to book my one night two day stay in Halong Bay. I also managed to find an alternative hotel; Hanoi Memory Hotel. This place would cost me $14/night including breakfast. It was much cleaner than the previous place. When I got back while I was using the Internet the girl sitting next I think asked how long I'd been in Hanoi and from then we began chatting. I told her I booked my Halong Bay trip through this company that seemed legit and she was looking for the same so I took her to the tour company and we decided to go together. I could tell right away she was cool. We sort of just hit it off. I told her I wanted to check out the museum of Literature so we did that and then went for a drink in the evening at this place called City View on the top floor of a 4 floor building. Sook decided to order a 'speciality drink' and so she got the 'city view six coloured drink'. It was definitely a cool drink but with the six different types of alcohol in the little glass, it was hard to take down. But the picture of our drink on fire was well worth it.

Sook and I - clearly very amused about our drink being on fire



The trip to Halong Bay was 3 hours by bus and then an additional hour by boat I think. Can't exactly remember. I slept part of the way. There were 11 of us on the boat; 6 french guys, a couple, an American and Sook and I. Cool group, just wish I could have chatted with the french boys as they were easy on the eyes;) We had lunch on the boat and then got to the caves. We saw two caves which I thought were really cool. After the caves we hit the boat again and were off explore the beauty of Halong Bay by kayaking. Sook and I paddled away from our boat and through a small cave. We didn't realize how shallow the water was and managed to get stuck in the rocks for a bit and I contemplated getting out into the water and pushing our boat. We had a good laugh and managed to get the boat moving again. Other than too many other tourists for my liking, the view was amazing and in the silence it was nothing I had experienced before; truly breathtaking.





The beautiful Halong Bay



After getting back on our boat we road along the water, sitting on the rooftop staring out into the sea sipping wine. It was a perfect way to spend an evening. It was cool and a bit foggy but that was expected. After dinner, the drinking and chatting continued on the rooftop. I had to bring a blanket up with me, I was so cold. I did manage to communicate for a bit with one of the french guys. One of them reminded me of Joaquin Phoenix - easy on the eyes! The trip was one of many firsts. It was the first time I had ever slept on a boat. Not the best sleep but a cool experience none the less. The next day was a bit of a waste as we were forced to wait more than hour while we dropped off the french guys at Cat Ba Island and waited for some other tourists to join our boat to head back to Hanoi. The bus ride back to Hanoi was packed and not comfortable. I was happy to get back to my hotel room after that long trip home. That evening, Sook and I did our own thing. I found a cute little restaurant near my hotel and it was just what I needed; a night listening to Adele eating a nice meal and writing. The next morning Sook and I checked out the women's museum which was interesting a worth a stop and then I was off to the airport to catch my flight back to Siem Reap. Vietnam was a fun trip and I'm really glad I got to see the country even though I was exhausted by the time I got back. Of course with exhaustion, I fell ill the day after. I can never go too long without good sleep. I got back to Globalteer on Christmas eve and I spent the night with Gemma drinking wine, ordering in food and listening to Christmas songs on youtube. Oh and we also opened up our presents from our secret Santa. It was the perfect way to spend the Christmas away from home. I think the second best part of travelling other than the travelling itself is making new friends along the way:)

Smoking watermelon flavoured sheesha in Hanoi



The busy streets of Ho Chi Minh City - people watching as I wait for my Pho Ga


Making my way through the tunnel- a little scary

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

WINTER IN SIEM REAP

The temperature here has dropped to a whopping 17 degrees Celsius at night and that's considered cold here. Funny enough I think I had adapted to the heat that I feel like I need to wear my cardigan at night to ward of the chill. Cycling home from school the other day I saw a woman wearing a parka! Not entirely unusual; Khmer's are donned head to toe in their winter gear so seeing scarfs and mittens is common.
I can't believe I've been here for 4 weeks. It feels like I only just arrived. I'm glad I'm extending my stay for a month. I'm no where close to leaving. I don't know what it is about this place but so many folks who come visit here just end up staying. I can see myself doing the same thing. I'm not sure if it's the people, the vibe or knowing I'm so far away from home that is so appealing about Siem Reap. Or maybe it's just that I'm still trying to figure out why I felt I needed to quit my job as a producer and fly across the world to be immersed in a culture I know nothing about.
Well the adventure continues as I leave for Vietnam for 6 days this Saturday. It'll be the first time I'll be travelling on my own. Nervous but excited!

Saturday, December 10, 2011

SO SIEM REAP

CLICK ON THE TITLE OF THIS BLOG TO VIEW MY FULL PHOTO ALBUM!

Keeping a blog is harder than I thought. Now that my days are filled with teaching, by the time I get home I don't have the mental capacity to accurately describe all that I've experienced in just three weeks while in this beautiful country. For starters the most unique thing I've experienced in Siem Reap was visiting the floating village, Kompong Pluk. Being amongst villagers whose lives are tailored around the high tide season was like travelling through time back to when people used whatever is at their disposal to survive and live a decent life. I really can't even find the words to describe how unique and amazing the experience was. These people who have built their homes on stilts to survive the wet season, scrap by with the basics but still have the heart to invite you into their home. They were so inviting as we walked around their wooden and bamboo made home taking pictures and looking around. And then of course nothing has yet compared to going swimming in the flooded forest and trying to pick snails off tree trunks with our feet. However all that is not to diminish the fun I've had walking around the night market on my own, going out dancing with the Globalteer gang at Angkor What?, volunteering for the Think Twice campaign (https://www.facebook.com/ThinkTwiceCampaign#!/thinktwicecambodia) to chilling at a tropical a swimming pool/bar called Aqua and of course just spending time with the children of Anjali. However things I have discovered I don't exactly enjoy: the random sound of bells and drums clanging really loud every morning, I'm assuming this is coming from some temple nearby; I also don't enjoy riding my bike along shattered roads while having to dodge dogs and other motorists, I don't mind dodging traffic along a smooth road; And then there's the annoyance of swatting away flies that swirl around our table as we try to eat our simple lunch of rice and whatever concoction of a Khmer dish the cooks have prepared that day. But said all this, I still love it here:)
















Our lovely hosts


The gang


Eating the snails we picked!

Friday, December 2, 2011

TWO WEEKS IN SIEM REAP

I was woken up by the blaring sounds of Khmer music playing next door to Globalteer's building. There's a wedding going on and so unless I get ear plugs I'm told I won't be sleeping much this weekend. I don't mind this though because I'd love to experience a wedding in Cambodia. From my third floor window I've got a view of the top of colourful tents and can see a few ladies cooking away. Of course when I went to grab coffee downstairs this morning I had to go walk over to have a peak. The scene had the feeling of excitement and joy as preparations were still going on. I think the actually wedding ceremony will happen sometime this evening. There were two large pictures of the bride and groom placed out front of the 'main' tent. The couple looked pleased but not exactly happy in the pictures. Clearly the shots were taken soley for the purpose of placing them at the front entrance. There's no such thing as engagement pictures here and who knows if this couple is even in love or not. Arranged marriages are common here.
So today I'll be chilling around the house until I have to head over to Peace Cafe for my second Khmer lesson. Khmer has got to be the hardest language to learn. They have like a 40 vowels and about 50 consonants. Hearing Khmer being spoken is like listening to strange sound affects. But the more I hear it, the more I can pick out actual words being spoken.

Anjali takes part of a photography exhibition that takes place in Siem Reap over a week. Work from professional photographers are displayed around the town on different days. The kids of Anjali displayed their work last Wednesday. They are taught about photography by professional photographers who come in from different countries for a couple of weeks to teach the kids how to take a good shot and to create a slide show of the best work. Not all the kids get to participate. It's mainly designated for the older kids however all the children get to come out on the day Anjali displays its work. It was a great night out and it was so nice to see the pride amongst all the Anjali kids as they cheered and laughed at the images displayed during the slide show.



One of the pictures taken by a student during the slideshow


The kids were given free balloons and were having a blast with them


The adorable kindergartens- I've got a soft spot for these kids


The younger Anjali kids arrive at the exhibition



It's been just over two weeks that I've been here and I've done some cool things. Me and a few other volunteers did a Khmer cooking class at a restaurant on Pub street called Le Tiger de Papier which we all just call the paper tiger. I learnt how to cook fish Amok which is the national dish. It's a fish curry made with a blend of spices, lemongrass and coconut milk. I really should have written down how we made it because I've already forgotten how but to be honest it was more about the experience of making a Khmer dish on my own than becoming an expert at amok. I also made papaya salad as my starter and we all decided on sticky mango rice as our desert. 3 hours on our feet chopping and mixing and stirring, we were all starving. We then sat down and ate our own meals. It was so satisfying. I even got a certificate to prove I learnt how to cook!






VOLUNTEERING AT ANJALI

It’s been just over a week since I arrived and when I’m riding my bicycle down the unpaved, red dusty roads in one of Siem Reap’s villages, I still can’t believe I’m here. It’s everything I imagined and more. Much more. I’ve seen poverty up close and I’m right in the middle of it every day when I trek out to the Anjali project educating kids who otherwise would have been selling knick knacks to foreigners like me. These children are so adorable and very friendly. On my first day at Anjali I was greeted warmly with beautiful smiles, hellos and even high fives. These kids know that volunteers like me are here to help them and for that they are grateful and show their appreciation. Unlike the other volunteers who focus on teaching the kids different topics per week, I’ve started drama workshops with all the classes. It’s been a challenge the last two days because I don’t always have a Khmer teacher to translate what I’m explaining to the kids and sometimes the older kids lose interest quickly in activities I’ve planned which suit the younger kids so every day, actually every hour, is a challenge. But the most satisfying reward is when you see the kids enjoying themselves and hearing the little ones giggle in amusement. It’s definitely not a walk in the park and I wasn’t sure what to expect while volunteering here but everyday I’m faced with a different challenge, whether it be how to get the kids focused for more than 20 minutes to trying to explain to one of the Khmer teachers what I’d like the students to do. I’m slowly getting used to the fact that I can’t directly express what I’m thinking to the students but I’m learning new ways of communicating which is exhausting at times. I’ve gone from being a ‘talking with my hands’ person to a ‘talking with every limb possible’ person. But as I get to know the kids more it’s so interesting to watch them learn and react to the volunteers. Usually the reaction you get from a Cambodian kid is not one you would get from a western kid. You really get to learn more about the culture here as you watch these kids react to one another and especially when you throw different scenarios at them. Their responses are so unpredictable and when I make it home in one piece after dodging cows, dogs and other motorists, I know why I am here. If I only get through to one kid or make his or her experience at Anjali just a bit better, that’s enough; However from the feedback I’ve been getting from the kids as well as the Khmer teachers, I know I’m helping more than just one kid and this makes me very happy. It makes all the challenges all the more worth it.







Kids getting ready to head home


All the kids love playing football or volleyball


Anjali House




Art covers the walls inside