HARIDWAR
We stick around to watch the Aarti (religious ritual of lighting wicks and offering it to the Ganga) which is suppose to be beautiful. So we stand on the steps of the Ganga and listen to the chanting and praying going on by the Sadhus and pundits. I see a man pouring in some liquid into the Ganga with one hand and holding his mobile up to his ear with the other- spirituality in the 21st century. This image really defines what India is becoming; a holy and spiritual land trying to balance the influx of consumerism and technology. I smirk.
While I listen to the chanting and watch the crowd in devotion, I figure now would be a good time to get connected with my spiritual self, so I pray. It’s a bit selfish, to say the least because as I focus my attention on the swirling murky water the only thing that comes to mind is to ask God to help me find what I’m looking for. Probably too vague of a question. I’m sure even God doesn't know what I’m asking.
After we’re ‘purified’ and in touch with our holier sides, we get shoved and pushed around the mosh pit trying to get our shoes and back into town. So much for peace and tranquillity. We escape and hold hands as we walk through the market towards home. I feel like we've just come out of a concert hall with fans eager to get home while others hang around wondering what do with that high religious adrenaline pumping through their veins.
And then it happens, I get my ass grazed. Yup. It was bound to happen so I’m not too annoyed but still having a man intentionally slide his hand across your butt as he glares back at you with a creepy smile pasted on his face, will always feel degrading. He's too far ahead for me to whack him with my water bottle but I'm prepared for the next perv.
I’ll be travelling to the Patanjali Yogpreeth ashram (http://www.divyayoga.com/) on the outskirts of Haridwar tomorrow on my own so I'm going to have to develop a more aggressive attitude and try to look tough and of course have my water bottle around as a weapon. Oh jeez, travelling alone in India, what am I thinking?! I’m not.
I'm glad I had company on my first train
experience in India since 2006. The trains have gotten better but the
station in Delhi is still a zoo of travellers, stray dogs, coolies, food
sellers, pick-pocketers, homeless and just loads and loads of people. Sitting in a AC first class car I'm comfortable
and hungry. It's only 6:50am and the train is just pulling out of the station -
right on schedule which surprises me. I thought everything in this country runs
on IST (Indian standard time - at least half an hour behind schedule) but nope not the
Shatabdi express!
A half an hour nap, two meals in 5 hours and we're there. We're greeted at the train station by Ritu's Uncle and the 5 of us (Ritu, her husband Jai, myself, Uncle and his friend) pack into a small honda hatchback. Yup, no more luxury from now on but I'm happy with this. I'm back to my basic backpacker lifestyle - it suits me well.
I have experienced my first religious ritual. I've taken a dip in the holy waters, the Ganga (Hindi way of saying Ganges). Hindus say the Ganga washes away your sins. I really hadn't planned on going in past my knees but as I turned to climb back up the steps Uncle stopped me and told me I had to go in and that it is "very important". So I got peer pressured by a man more than twice my age.
I let out a yelp when I almost got pushed in by the mob around me who apparently weren't bothered by the freezing grey-greenish water. I slowly crept my way in. Once the water was waist level and I had practically been drenched by the all the splashing, I knew there was no turning back. I embraced the mind over matter attitude and shrieked my way into the icy river. On the count of three, Ritu and I blocked our noses and went under. I couldn't believe I had done it! I was so proud of myself. However I didn't feel any lighter by having my sins washed away. I think all I got was nearly pneumonia and who knows what kind of germs laced onto my skin and hair. I mean for heaven's sake people throw their deceased loved ones ashes into this river!
A half an hour nap, two meals in 5 hours and we're there. We're greeted at the train station by Ritu's Uncle and the 5 of us (Ritu, her husband Jai, myself, Uncle and his friend) pack into a small honda hatchback. Yup, no more luxury from now on but I'm happy with this. I'm back to my basic backpacker lifestyle - it suits me well.
Uncle's hunting rifle |
I let out a yelp when I almost got pushed in by the mob around me who apparently weren't bothered by the freezing grey-greenish water. I slowly crept my way in. Once the water was waist level and I had practically been drenched by the all the splashing, I knew there was no turning back. I embraced the mind over matter attitude and shrieked my way into the icy river. On the count of three, Ritu and I blocked our noses and went under. I couldn't believe I had done it! I was so proud of myself. However I didn't feel any lighter by having my sins washed away. I think all I got was nearly pneumonia and who knows what kind of germs laced onto my skin and hair. I mean for heaven's sake people throw their deceased loved ones ashes into this river!
Pilgrims |
"All good. Not freezing at all." (hahah, yeah right) |
We stick around to watch the Aarti (religious ritual of lighting wicks and offering it to the Ganga) which is suppose to be beautiful. So we stand on the steps of the Ganga and listen to the chanting and praying going on by the Sadhus and pundits. I see a man pouring in some liquid into the Ganga with one hand and holding his mobile up to his ear with the other- spirituality in the 21st century. This image really defines what India is becoming; a holy and spiritual land trying to balance the influx of consumerism and technology. I smirk.
Lighting of wicks |
While I listen to the chanting and watch the crowd in devotion, I figure now would be a good time to get connected with my spiritual self, so I pray. It’s a bit selfish, to say the least because as I focus my attention on the swirling murky water the only thing that comes to mind is to ask God to help me find what I’m looking for. Probably too vague of a question. I’m sure even God doesn't know what I’m asking.
Ritu and I after being blessed by the Ganga and a Pundit |
And then it happens, I get my ass grazed. Yup. It was bound to happen so I’m not too annoyed but still having a man intentionally slide his hand across your butt as he glares back at you with a creepy smile pasted on his face, will always feel degrading. He's too far ahead for me to whack him with my water bottle but I'm prepared for the next perv.
I’ll be travelling to the Patanjali Yogpreeth ashram (http://www.divyayoga.com/) on the outskirts of Haridwar tomorrow on my own so I'm going to have to develop a more aggressive attitude and try to look tough and of course have my water bottle around as a weapon. Oh jeez, travelling alone in India, what am I thinking?! I’m not.
The 20km
journey to Pajanjali takes an hour long bumpy autorikshaw ride. I arrive
sweating and with a headache. I pay, according to local standards, an expensive
fare to the autorikshaw wala- a whole 200 rupees which is about four bucks.
Okay so
the ashram is nothing what I expected. The massive white arc of the front gate
makes it look like I'm entering a place dedicated to top secret investigative services than a place which is meant to treat people and encourage a yogic
lifestyle. The guards here look more attentive than the indifferent Delhi cops
who just look bored most of the times while they pick their noses – no
exaggeration here, I've seen it with my own eyes!
[pictures of the ashram to be included here once I get my camera working again]
The grounds are huge and
there are different buildings each housing a different service from aryuvedic
treatment facilities to hospital like rooms to a cafeteria. I feel like I’m on
a University campus. I realize when I
get to the ‘patient registration’ counter and asked what my illness is, that
this place is more of an Aryuvedic treatment centre than a place to get in
touch with ones spirituality. So I tell the Doctor, who looks at least a few years younger than me, all
about my IBS. I’m given yet another list of products I must take, and told I
need to learn pranyama and kapalbhati (yoga breathing techniques) to cure my illness. I’m
surprised that this Doctor thinks my IBS is curable when all the western docs I have seen have told me that there’s no cure only methods of coping. So I take
my bags, sign up for an AC room and settle in.
I think
I’m the only foreigner here and the intense stares I’m getting verify it and
make me feel out of place. I ask Dr. Doogie Howser where and when the yoga
takes place and then at 5:30pm I make my way to the large gazebo like structure
to take part in my first pranayama lesson. It’s everything my Mom had tried to
teach me and I feel guilty for not listening to her – Mom’s are always right. Damn
it!
The
instructor has us doing slow movements and stretches and I’m already sweating.
Of course it doesn’t help that it’s about 40 degrees Celsius outside. I’m proud
of myself for sitting through the full lesson which is an hour and half. I
reserve to my room, shower and head to bed. I set my alarm for 6am so I can be
ready for the 7am yoga.
so yeah that doesn’t happen. I’m exhausted and don’t wake up
until 10:30am. After lunch in a cold and dreary looking cafeteria I step
outside the ashram grounds to the only shop in the near vicinity. I’m impressed
with this line up of shops. I find my batteries and some gum and I’m quite
thrilled when I spot ‘cyber shop’
written on a small boxed room with only three computers inside. I’m feeling a
little guilty for going on the internet while staying at an ashram but without internet access for the last 24 hours, I'm going through withdrawal. Contact with the
outside world for half an hour and I feel so much better. It’s almost time for
the 5:30pm pranayam class so I take my seat and I’m already feeling hot and
sticky. This is going it be tough.
I made
it! I did the full one and half hour session and I’m proud of myself. Off to
bed early, pranayama at 7am and then get ready and leave for another ashram. The
morning pranayama is tough. I’m tired and eager to reach the next ashram which
I’m hoping will cater more to what I’m looking for....wait, do I even know what
I’m looking for?